Misinformation: Plating Edition
I came across a TikTok made by an influencer discrediting a large jewellery brand that sold gold plated jewellery and vermeil. She labelled them as "scammers" for selling any gold plated jewellery for over $100.
I had to get in on this conversation.
Because a few years ago, I would have AGREED with her. I was dead against gold plated jewellery for years, until I educated myself and found the right quality of plating.
So let's break it down, because there is a lot of misinformation out there and it's important for you to be equipped with the right knowledge so you can make jewellery choices that suit your lifestyle.
(as someone who has worked in jewellery for over a decade I can say this: as an industry we've done a terrible job at providing education for our customers. So here we are to help clarify)
Plating ranges in thickness and quality:
Flash plating
This is the least costly style of plating. This is an ultra thin layer that is electroplated over an inexpensive base metal.
Best for:
Although this is the lowest quality, it serves a good purpose. Bold costume pieces that you are not going to wear daily are a suitable choice for flash plating (think statement earrings that you are wearing only on special occasions).
Not suitable for:
- Anyone with metal sensitivities, as there are unclear regulations for flash plating and it can be hard to know what the base metal is underneath
- Everyday wear (flash plating wears through VERY quickly when worn everyday)
Micron Plating
This is the next step up. Micron plating is still a fine layer, but it has specific regulations. A micron is 0.001 of a millimeter. Items may be plated with 1 micron, 2 microns, 5 microns, etc. Generally, micron plated pieces will have a higher quality metal underneath. If your piece of jewellery is 925 stamped, then it is Sterling Silver underneath the gold layer.
Best for:
Items that are worn daily with proper care. Like any plating, micron plating will eventually wear through. However, with a few daily habits (removing items before showering, exercising, hot tub, etc.) you can expect your pieces to last years. *This is dependant on how many microns are used, the wearer's personal habits, and the metal underneath
Not suitable for:
- 24 hour wear
Vermeil (pronounced ver-may)
Despite what you may have heard, Vermeil is a high quality metal. Vermeil is gold plated over sterling silver that is a minimum of 2 microns thick. This is what we use for our plated designs.
Best used for:
Those with metal sensitivities. With vermeil, you always know what you are getting. As long as your skin does not react to either 14 Karat Gold or Sterling Silver, this is a great metal for you to opt for. We also love it's warm colour.
Not suitable for:
- 24 hour wear
- Poor maintenance lifestyle (since Sterling Silver is underneath, you want to ensure you follow proper care instructions to avoid early tarnishing)
Gold Fill
If you've talked with us at an event, you know how much we love this metal. Gold Fill is the next best thing to solid gold, for a fraction of the price. Gold Fill is 14 Karat Gold that is bonded to a brass core. It is different from plating due to the process and requirements. 5% of an item's total weight MUST be solid gold. Gold Fill is what we use for necklace chains, as these get a lot of wear.
Unlike what you may have heard, it CAN tarnish, however is it quite resistant to tarnishing, and can usually be re-polished to it's original state. Gold Fill can be hammered, drilled, and wrapped without flaking or wearing off. It's a magical metal.
Best for:
- Anything it can be made into
- Daily wear (although we still recommend following our care instructions, Gold Fill is a very low maintenance metal)
- Those with metal sensitivities
Not suitable for:
A downside to Gold Fill is that due to the process of creating this metal, not every item can be replicated in it. It's can also be a costly metal. Since the gold requirements are based on an item's weight, larger pieces, or thicker chains can be quite expensive.
Pro tips:
- Before purchasing your next piece of jewellery, consider your lifestyle
- Invest in higher quality pieces you plan to wear everyday
- Follow a few simple habits to ensure you get the most life out of your jewels
- Ask questions! If it is unclear what metals a brand is using, ask before you buy. Most independent brands are happy to educate their customers! It doesn't do anyone any good if you get stuck with a piece you cannot enjoy:)
Written by Leah Yard